Infinity Gardens

Fri, 20 Jun 2014 02:58:51 +0000

Creeping Bell flower or European Bell flower is an invasive,

introduced species by the early Canadian and American Nursery trades. This flowering plant is deceptively beautiful and many unknowing gardeners dig it from roadsides, invaded natural areas or are given it by well meaning friend. Many years ago this plant was given out free at the Calgary Stampede.

This species spreads rapidly by underground by rhizomes, with fine spreading hairy roots. The flowers are purplish blue and bloom on a long thin raceme. The leaves are alternating up the stem, with bottom leaves a heart shape and upper leaves a lance shape. Leaf edges are notched.

Control is very difficult as this plant invades gardens, lawns and robustly growing natural areas. Many people claim nonselective weed killers (round up) will kill this weed. Some leaves will be killed but very little damage is done to root systems. Selective weed killers with Dicamba in them have some effect on Bell flower in lawns. The only way to slow down and hopefully eliminate an invasion of this nasty weed, is to dig rhizomes and roots out, at a depth of up to 18 inches. A pitch fork is a good tool to separate the roots out of the soil. Proper disposal into land fill or burning are best. Composting these weeds is not recommended as a home composter rarely reaches high enough temperature to fully kill the roots.

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Container Plantings

Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:49:20 +0000

A quick and easy way to brighten up decks, roof top gardens etc..

is with planters. Picking out a great looking pot is the first step. Clay planters tend to have a higher end look to them, imitation plastic ones can be pleasing if chosen correctly.

Consideration should be given to the area where a pot is placed. If annual flowers are chosen use a glazed clay or plastic pot for plants loving sunshine, these planters will hold water longer, preventing desiccation. Shade loving plants, placed on either north side of buildings or in sheltered areas can be put in unglazed pots as their watering requirements tend to be less. Shade plants are more tolerant of excessive watering, it is usually difficult to overwater planters as they dry do rapidly.

If herbs are grown, a well drained unglazed pot is a great choice. Herbs naturally are grown in heavier, dry soils.

A light weight soil mixture should be uses for most containers. Planter soil mixes should have abundant peat, perlite or vermiculite mixed with soil. Some mixes will have a slow release fertilizer in them. Herbs are the exception to these soil requirements, less lightening amendments and fertilizers should be used.

Planters require daily watering during hot dry weather. A planter should be watered to field capacity. Field capacity simply means watering the pot until water starts to drain out from the bottom.

Potted flowers, herbs or small shrubs can add colour and beauty to your outdoor living spaces.

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Black Knot Fungus on Mayday trees and Schubert Chokecherries

Fri, 13 Jun 2014 20:45:24 +0000

Black knot (Dibotryon morbosum) is a fungal infection that is

common to the Prunus genus. This genus includes Mayday Trees and Schubert Chokecherries. Black knot disease was first described in 1821 in Pennsylvania. During the 1880′s black knot was the most destructive disease of tart cherries and plums in the United States. The disease was later spread to Canada. This disease is not as destructive as it was historically, but with several wet Calgary spring times and over irrigation the disease is making a return.

Black knot fungus causes gross cell multiplication causing abnormal swellings of the plants tissues. These growths known as galls, are found on the branches, first as green corky growths, that become hardened and black. The knots affect the trees general vigour as they stay year to year. A large infestation can eventually cause the trees demise. The galls can have a width of almost 3 inches and can grow to a length of 1 foot depending upon branch sizes.

Like most fungal diseases, spread of the spores is rapid during wet weather. Long periods of wet weather during spore production is ideal for rampant spread. Trees are generally inoculated and the rapid cell multiplication occurs previous to flowering and during active flowering. Presentation of the disease can also be during leaf drop if there is adequate moisture.

To control an infected tree, pruning is one of your best defences. There is some controversy amongst arborists about whether to prune during dormancy or active growth, but all agree that dry weather is the best time to prune. Spore production is the lowest at this time and all pruning materials should be removed, burned or sent to landfill. Prune 6 to 8 inches below the gall formation.

Prevention is your best defence against this prolific fungus. As with all fungal infections, moisture levels need to be present for survival. Watering should not be done during the evening or nighttime hours. If trees are watered in the early am, the tissues have time to dry in the heat of the day, holding back fungal growth. Drip irrigation is better for trees as it prevents overwatering of the foliage and branches. There are no recommended chemical controls.

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Planting Depths

Sun, 01 Jun 2014 21:06:46 +0000

Whether it is planting summer annuals or costly trees the depth of your roots makes a significant difference to the plants health and longevity. As a general rule the roots should be completely buried with the plants or tree stem/trunk exposed. Quite simply the plant should be level with the ground. If plant roots are exposed they will desiccate rapidily causing growth retardation or death. Winter kill is often caused by this excessive drying of the roots. If the stem or trunk is buried, rot can occur. Branches growing directly in soil can cause disease problems.

Certain plants parts are often mistaken as part of the root and covered with soil. Rhizomes (bulb like section) require full exposure to the sun or disease and insect infestations can occur. Rhizomes are familiar to most gardeners on iris species. The roots coming off the rhizomes need to be covered with the rhizome exposed. Bulbs or corms need to be completely buried usually at a depth of 3 to 4 times the height of the bulb. Bulbs are not a root but still require full coverage. Some bulbs take exception to this rule such as amaryllis, where the bulb needs full sun exposure, roots do still require full soil coverage.

Hybridized roses (includes most roses) have a large bulbous growth, where the graft meets the root stock. The conjunction of the graft should never be buried (it is often mistaken as part of the root) as this area will invite insects and other fungal or bacterial infections.

Finally if you are planning to use a tree well around your tree, ensure the tree is level with the lower soil in the well rather than the higher edges. Tree wells are better used in dry areas where water needs to be captured. In swampy low areas wells are not necessary, plants species with root systems that can tolerate excessive moisture are a better choice.

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Shade Planting

Mon, 26 May 2014 16:46:25 +0000

Shady, damp areas are often a difficult place to maintain a garden. Coniferous (cone bearing trees) tend to create a rather acid soil

environment making plant growth difficult. The soil can be amended with calcium sources. It is better to use decorative mulch, rather than plants under trees. Mulch will prevent root damage to the trees. Under deciduous trees (broad leaf trees) it is not necessarily a desirable place to plant, because of potential root damage to the trees. When you go outside of the drip line (the edge of the branches) the roots are deeper and the soil is less acidic making planting desirable.

Often by looking at a plants foliage, you can tell if it will do well in a damp shady area. Shade plants have large leaves to maximize photosynthesis.

Some good plant choices for shade include:

Lily of the valley – Convallaria majalis

Hosta lily’s – Hosta crispula/elata

Bergenia – Bergenia crassifolia

Large rooted geraniums – Geranium macrorrhizum

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Annual Planting

Mon, 12 May 2014 15:21:33 +0000

Gardeners look forward to the bright, instant flash of colour annual flowering plants bring to their planters and flower beds. The number of cultivars available to the home or commercial gardener is truly abundant.

To ensure the success of your newly purchased planting materials, it is important to keep them well watered before and after planting. A cool overcast day is ideal, when transferring young ornamentals to their new environment. A hot sunny day will cause additional shock to transplants, leaving plants wilted or scorched .
Soil should be tilled up and moist prior to planting. If the soil is excessively heavy or sandy, compost or peat can be incorporated. These pre-planting additions will aid in the development of new roots. Slow release granular fertilizers can be added at this time.
When it comes time to remove plants from their cell packs, loosen or slightly score the roots, this will stimulate growth and spread. If roots are not stimulated they will grow and continue to circle them selves causing reduced over all vigour.
Transplants should be planted level with the soil. If annuals are planted too deep rot can occur and if the root ball is left slightly exposed then plant will dry out excessively. The soil should be lightly tamped and watered throughly.
Water soluble fertilizers can be added after planting, if pre-planting fertilizers have not been previously added. Fertilizers for flowering plants should be high in phosphorus, this is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer ratio. These ratios are always printed on the packaging of any fertilizer.
The single most important factor to ensure the survival of annual plantings is to keep them well watered during their initial establishment. Annual transplants have to be watered daily unless it is raining adequately.

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When to Time your Tree Pruning

Wed, 07 May 2014 02:46:12 +0000

It is a general rule to prune trees while they are dormant to minimize damage and stimulate new growth.

Fruit bearing trees are pruned during dormancy to reduce crop quantity, but increase the fruits quality. This timing will also aid in new bud formation the following year.

Spring pruning should be complete before the buds begin to open. However diseased or damaged branches should be immediately removed. Evergreens do well if pruned right after the wood has had a chance to thaw. To achieve a compact effect on pine trees, pruning should be put off until late June.

Pruning has a dwarfing effect on all trees but more so if it id done in June and July. Flowering trees should also be pruned during the summer after the trees have flowered. If a tree is particularly late flowering it can be pruned in the spring just before active growth begins.

Trees such as Maple or Birch are considered bleeders and should be pruned in the summer, when the leaves are fully formed. Summer time pruning will minimize excessive sap loss.

Late summer and early fall pruning should be left for dead wood only. Any extra pruning at this time before dormancy can stimulate new growth, this growth will not be able to harden off adequately before winter. Damage usually includes cankers and excessive die back.

Deciduous trees thrive with a late winter early spring pruning.

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Beautiful Garden Beds

Fri, 02 May 2014 16:39:08 +0000

If you have taken on the task of building your own bed, you should keep in mind to have at least 12” of top soil. This will be optimal for your plants root systems to grow and flourish. Be sure you use “Garden Mix” and not just loam to help your plants the proper nutrients for the transition from pots to the ground. Raised beds are recommended because they look beautiful and a good edger will help prevent annoying grass from growing in your beds.

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Timing your Turf Fertilizers

Mon, 28 Apr 2014 20:43:32 +0000

Now that the frost is slowing coming out of the soil, it is time to start thinking about fertilizing your lawn.

How often you fertilize a home lawn depends on your soil type. Most of Calgary has very rich clay soil. Clay based soils hold nutrients very well, unlike sandy soils that naturally leach fertilizers. Properties in the river valleys tend to have sandy soils.

Ideally lawns in Calgary should be fertilized 2 to 3 times a year. The regimen for two applications a year, is late spring and early fall. The greenest lawns are the ones that had a early September fertilizer application. It is a common mistake to fertilize in early April rather than the fall. If you have missed the fall application it is best for the turf to wait until late May.

If you choose to do 3 applications a year, the first should be in late summer. The next application should be late fall, followed by a May application.

If a lawn is in need of repair from neglect or weed problems, 4 applications a year can be used. The first application should be late summer, followed by a late fall application. The third amount would be late spring and the final fertilizer is added in early summer.

Add a cool day and irrigation to these application dates and success shall be yours.

By Jacquie Lautermilch

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How do I prevent weeds?

Tue, 22 Apr 2014 05:36:57 +0000

There are a lot of variables when it comes to weed growth but we will start simple. In the spring, around the same time as your first mow, you should start off by feeding your grass

with a good fertilizer like Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Fertilizer. (be sure to mow higher in the spring to encourage healthy roots I would recommend over 2″) If your grass is healthy and well fed, then weeds will have a harder time taking over. Once you do see a weed pop up, you may want to spot-kill them with something like Ortho Weed-B-Gon MAX® Weed Killer For Lawns. And if they have already become a big problem for you, you could try something like Scotts® Turf Builder® Weed & Feed. Be sure you calibrate your fertilizer spreader correctly, usually there are instructions on the back of the fertilizer bag. Don’t forget to give your grass a good watering after to prevent a burnt lawn too. Watering your lawn very well 1-2 times per week will encourage lawn health and keep your weeds at bay!

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